360 Chrysler running like crap cont...

[bill]

Thanks Scott,
I have ordered the Wells AL950 caps and AL937 Rotors should be here in a couple of days.
I plan on pulling the boat Tuesday
It would be nice to try it out before the long winter nap.
We will see.
bill

[bill]

OKay
The new caps and rotor arrived last night and I just finished up installing them.
The engines started right up.
I ordered on line from AUTO ZONE.. These caps are made in the US and have aluminum contacts in the caps.
The rotors have bronze contacts.
Wells AL950 cap and AL937 rotor

I plan on running it again tomorrow for a couple of hours at the dock and then take it out on the river to verify We have fixed this
Pain in the A$#&* problem.

Any way the boat is coming out of the water Tuesday for the long winter nap.

Stay tuned
bill

[bill]

Well after two hours idling at the dock I took her out for the last run of the season
No misses- no stumbling- no bogging down. It just purred and jumped up on plane like it was designed to do.
I believe it was the faulty Sierra distributor caps. Thats my story and I am sticking to it.
bill

[Supersport18]

I'm considering packing my distributor cap with desiccant over the winter. And checking it every month or so. Trying to avoid the rusty advance spring syndrome that has plagued some forum members.

[bill]

I wonder if you just left the distributor cap off over the winter, would that a eliminated the moisture build up Well heck what do I have to lose
Its only two screws, just have to re install in the spring before launch .
bill

[jralbert]

Or a shot of a moisture repelling fluid such as WD 40?

[Supersport18]

WD40 couldn't hurt. My thinking is that condensation is caused by the constant temp changes through the winter. WD40 dissipates moisture, but evaporates over time. I also thought about leaving caps off, but condensation occurs on exterior surfaces as well as interior. Might pull them and store in dry place for winter.

[bcassedy]

Bill,

Question... (first a bit of a story....)
Last year on our annual trip downriver we experienced what might be the same issue that you have run into. However, the problem was on the return leg of our trip and the Port engine had been running for over 4 hours. We were running about 1750 RPM on our Chrysler 318's. Suddenly (without any warning) the Port engine "hiccuped" <dropped RPM's down to about 850> and then recovered. It ran fine for a few minutes then "hiccuped" again, also dropping to about 850RPM and then recovered. Finally, on the 3rd event, the RPM's just dropped and the engine quit. It would start but immediately dropped RPM's and died. We made the final 3 hours from Aurora, In. to our marina (Manhattan Harbour) on 1 engine. When we arrived, the port engine did start and we were able to dock normally.

This year, thinking that the problem was a fuel pump (manual type - we'd had a similar issue with the starboard engine and I replaced that.), I replaced that (pump). We made only a few short trips this summer (about an hour each) with no issues. On our annual (non) trip this year, we got 50 minutes out of the marina when the port engine did the exact same "hiccup - run - hiccup - run - die off" sequence. We came back to the marina on the starboard engine. Trip canceled.

So I'm stuck with what appears to be a ton of options. Your distributor cap / rotor replacement adds to that....
I had replaced both engine caps and rotors (along with wires) 2 seasons ago which I got from NAPA (brand - unsure).

What's been suggested / considered:
1. Fuel issue - new fuel water separators this spring (need to pull port and see what the contents are), inline metal cannister fuel filter this year, Perko filter (need to check), screen filter at carburetor.
2. Fouled gas - need to pump from bottom of tank and see what it looks like.
3. Possible coil breakdown when heated up.
4. Your fix with replacement of the distributor cap and rotor.

There also seemed to be someone that had a similar issue that detailed his issue/fix on the old site but I can't seem to locate that.

Any thoughts? Anyone? (isn't a fix by acclimation but if I haven't thought of it, better to have someone else who may have a possible cause/fix.

Bill

[ericinga]

Bill-

Which ignition system are you running?

A similar issue surfaced with our Chrysler electronic ignition system. Turned out to be a bad ballast resistor and an incorrect coil installed by PO. The resistor test is very simple. Check resistance across top and bottom poles.

Eric

[bill]

Bill,

Question... (first a bit of a story....)
Last year on our annual trip downriver we experienced what might be the same issue that you have run into. However, the problem was on the return leg of our trip and the Port engine had been running for over 4 hours. We were running about 1750 RPM on our Chrysler 318's. Suddenly (without any warning) the Port engine "hiccuped" <dropped RPM's down to about 850> and then recovered. It ran fine for a few minutes then "hiccuped" again, also dropping to about 850RPM and then recovered. Finally, on the 3rd event, the RPM's just dropped and the engine quit. It would start but immediately dropped RPM's and died. We made the final 3 hours from Aurora, In. to our marina (Manhattan Harbour) on 1 engine. When we arrived, the port engine did start and we were able to dock normally.

This year, thinking that the problem was a fuel pump (manual type - we'd had a similar issue with the starboard engine and I replaced that.), I replaced that (pump). We made only a few short trips this summer (about an hour each) with no issues. On our annual (non) trip this year, we got 50 minutes out of the marina when the port engine did the exact same "hiccup - run - hiccup - run - die off" sequence. We came back to the marina on the starboard engine. Trip canceled.

So I'm stuck with what appears to be a ton of options. Your distributor cap / rotor replacement adds to that....
I had replaced both engine caps and rotors (along with wires) 2 seasons ago which I got from NAPA (brand - unsure).

What's been suggested / considered:
1. Fuel issue - new fuel water separators this spring (need to pull port and see what the contents are), inline metal cannister fuel filter this year, Perko filter (need to check), screen filter at carburetor. (mine were new this spring-gas was clean no water in glass jar after dumping and setting)
2. Fouled gas - need to pump from bottom of tank and see what it looks like. (fuel pick ups at bottom of tank so you are already pumping bottom)
3. Possible coil breakdown when heated up. (replaced mine)
4. Your fix with replacement of the distributor cap and rotor. ( worked for me)

There also seemed to be someone that had a similar issue that detailed his issue/fix on the old site but I can't seem to locate that. (yes there was a lot of information on the old site and most of it is here on the new site only you have to read all the whole twenty pages, but hey what else you got to do over the long winter. It'll keep you out of trouble. )

Any thoughts? Anyone? (isn't a fix by acclimation but if I haven't thought of it, better to have someone else who may have a possible cause/fix.

Bill

Wow sounds like the same problems I have been dealing with.
Not sure on what year Chrysler engines you have? Mine being 1975 Chrysler electronic distributors. I have replaced pick up coil in the distributor, ECM (engine control module) I call it the transistorized ignition module , Ballast resistor, coil, spark plugs and wires.
How Ron found the bad cap was when the engine finaly stalled and would not restart. He pulled the coil wire off the distributor and shorted it near a ground. He got a good heathy spark. He next went to a plug wire and grounded it near the block. No spark Then went to the cap and put a screw driver into the hole where the plug goes and used a jumper wire to check for spark. Notta-nothing We also checked the other seven holes in the cap. No Spark
We installed an old cap that I had in my parts box and she fired right up.
I have replaced it with a new Wells AL950 cap & AL937 rotor made in the USA
bill