A plasteak deck
- Category: Hull and Deck
- Published: Monday, 14 July 2014 16:22
- Written by Super User
- Hits: 2050
Robert used the 3/4 by 5 1/2 Plasteak tongue and groove, This product has 2 black lines, and one adds one down seam between the sections when one is done.
The original Marinette floor had Stainless screws and plated washers to catch edges on Aluminum beams, but Robert discovered the washers were gone, having corroded away. For backing on engine hatches and access hatches, Robert used a 3/4 plastic board from same place (it comes in a 4 by 8 foot sheet) (sic Pasteak’s Kelron or Seaboard’s product?) He also used cedar wood for stringers on Engine hatches. For the stainless seam covers, he went to a metals supply store (specializing in steels) and purchased a piece. A friend sheared it into strips.
Robert spent a lot of time drilling the stainless strips at slow speed with lots of cutting oil and a cobalt drill bit. He bought a good angle drill (1/2 inch VSR) for working in tight places, fastening floor from underneath. Access hatches were larger, but Robert cut them to fit, not wanting to cut the main aluminum supports (beams).
Finally, Our hero had the hatch rings welded back together. Robert reports that it’s “Lots of work”, being about 300 to 400 hours. Backing was used under hatch rings (inter) and engine hatches. He found had to come up with some supports under engine hatches (hence the cedar stringers), so the full weight was not on hatch edges. New stainless steel hinges were free, being salvaged by a friend off some cabinets (and don’t we all wish we had these kind of friends?(Ed.)).
Robert recommends unless you can do a lot of this your self and have access to get welding and shearing done, it could get even more expensive.”