Marinette Boat Forum

I got a month of bad weather so I think its time to replace the sponge / deck on my M

I'm buying plywood and using the Jamestown Distributor's penetrating epoxy and think I'm going to use Steelflex epoxy paint to finish it rather than the vinyl stuff that really just traps water under it.

Any tips before I rip the old deck out and get going?

Good plan. Pls make sure you coat the underside and edges well. The underside is exposed to the always wet and damp bilge. An anti-slip coating should also be part of the project. Another tip from others who've done this is to rip out carefully and use the pieces as your pattern

Good call!

So have you thought about making the hatch openings bigger?

Yes. I'm going to keep the engine opening as is but add doors the same width and length on either side for long term storage / access.

The back is going to remain as is because I'm going to use smaller pieces so I can replace smaller sections where we usually see rot. So, I'll have a long piece running along the left & right sides so I can pull the section easily when rot happens along the edges.

I am looking forward to seeing how your project moves forward. My motor compartments are really tight. (I have twin 426 Chryslers) I had toyed with the idea of making two hatches that would extend from front to back basically allowing you full access to all the mechanicals. I have another boat at St. Simons Island, GA. , (not an M) that Pluckebaum Yachts in Prospect made a motor hatch for. The increased room has made engine repairs a breeze and when I have had to have outside help has decreased their rates.

I replaced my wood deck with aluminum. It was about the same cost as wood and a lot easier. You can make the hatches as big or as many as you want, the problem is you have the deck framing under the deck. A few pieces were cut out and not put back on mine. If you make the deck fold up or even removable, the framing is still there in the way. So you have to look at it and see what is easy to cut out and make it bolt back in,( for access ) or the deck strong enough that it doesn't need all the framing and just leave it out. --Ed

I highly recommend this stuff
http://versatex.com/pvc-sheet-material.
Easy to work with. I did need to add some re-enforcement under the larger openings in the sub framing but no big deal. Can just take in bolt and remove if needed.

Any pics available of install process, and/or final install?

I'll do a proper project doc for you guys (and the next guy)

I'm going to start this afternoon. Light disassembly to see what I have, then I cut.

I looked at aluminum but the cost was much more and down here, I have no clue as to when they would actually deliver it (regardless of what they tell me)

I'm going the epoxy soaked wood route because I can get it done myself and all in for about $600. I will add 2 large hatches on either side of the engine and make 2 areas that can be easily replaced (high traffic / water areas)

Stay tuned, might be a daily upload of pics