Anodes

[balthaus]

So I am gearing up to paint from the rub rail down and have some questions regarding the anodes.
Recently I read on here that the anodes should be bolted to bare aluminum.
Once I remove the old anodes and clean the surfaces should I get them to raw aluminum and simply re-attach the anodes or do I need to etch/prime before attaching the anodes?

[Supersport18]

Shiny aluminum. Do not paint! And use a stainless steel wire brush to clean the surface where the anodes attach.

[balthaus]

Thanks.
That is what I "thought" I was hearing but wanted to make sure.
Hopefully the "weather guessers" are correct and I will be able to get a lot done this coming week.

[newendeavor]

Bare clean Aluminum and mount with Stainless Steel 1/4 x 20 bolts that will not rust/ corrode away.

[balthaus]

Thanks for that tid - bit of info.
I thought that all fasteners should be stainless, but it never hurts to be reminded / educated.
This Forum is a wealth of info from sooo many Marinette owners.
I am grateful for the willingness of everyone to share and educate.

[newendeavor]

I would use magnesium on the Ohio. Did you visit Boatzinc.com ?

[balthaus]

I did get them from BoatZincs.
I got what the had for Marinette, which is Aluminum Alloy (KA90).
Is magnesium the way to go on the Ohio?

[bcassedy]

We boat in the Ohio up near Cincinnati, Oh. I've used the Boatzinc.com recommended aluminum bar bolted (SS 1/4") to bare/cleaned of all past year's corrosion metal and collar anodes on the prop shafts. Have maintained dead on or just slightly above 9 on the Capac meter. The condition of the prop shaft collar anodes is more eaten up/degraded than the others.

[balthaus]

Dang It !!!!
I did not order those.
Typically are the shafts 1 1/4" ?

[DougDoty]

usually 1" on the 32 and smaller and 1 3/8" on 39, not sure about others My 39 has none on the shafts since I have had it, no issues. With that said I am stripping to aluminum and doing an Interprotect 2000E epoxy bottom on it this spring.