Marinette Boat Forum

Just a quick update, I pulled the starter today and with some jumpers discovered my Bendix wasn't moving in and out and the starter was pretty slow most of the time. I pulled it open and found out it was very very rusty. The brushes were all stuck some making contact some not making contact. Started some quick cleanup and with a hour of Sanding and some nice dielectric spray the brushes are now moving freely. Hope to get it back together tomorrow.

Shew, after having starters rebuilt, permently mounting my temporarily mounted GM HEI ignition conversion, adding a relay to get correct power to the ignition system, replacing inline fuel filters, and re checking and adjusting timing based on several of your instructions I have a engine that starts and runs. After finally getting fresh gas in the carbs via pouring it straight into the bowls with one tap of the ignition switch she starts instantly. I only let her run a couple of seconds as I had no water hooked up for the exhaust etc. Hopefully will get to try the other one this weekend. It's amazing at what a high output coil and starters that spin faster then the minute hand on a clock will do. Thanks everyone for all of your help. Next step is to hook up the "fake lake" and try to get her to run on a external tank long enough to set timing correctly and check for other issues. Then it will be draining 12 year old gas from the tanks etc.

Good to hear! For my engines to run on land, I just put a hose from the input of the sea strainer into a 5 gallon bucket. Run a garden hose into the bucket. At idle the hose will barely keep the bucket full. Rev it up and it will empty the bucket and you have to stop the engine. You just have to keep an eye on it. When it's time to winterize I put 4 gallons of anti-freeze in the bucket and suck it up. It will be coming out the exhaust when it is all sucked up.
I use a vacuum guage to adjust the timing and carb for highest vacuum you can get at that throttle setting
Now you did the first one, the other one will be easy. Good luck, Ed

When you empty the tanks you will probably be amazed how much water is in there ..emptying the tanks can be a difficult task with the anti-siphon valves . I hooked an old electric fuel pump up inline and pumped into a external container and made short work of it after wasting time on other methods .

I have a 12v universal fuel pump on order. I hope that get the job done. Can't thank everyone enough for the help. The PO left me a bucket with a ball valve silicones into the side with a hose on it. I plan on hooking it up and seeing if we can idle. Currently the wife has the water source hooked to the pressure washer to knock 12 years of crude off the boat.

So quick question when hooking up the 12v pump do I hook it up before the fuel pump on the engine? Straight off the tank, before the carb etc? I have a few days before it arrives.

I put mine just Before the fuel pump . Anywhere you can hook a fuel line between tank and fuel pump should be fine . After a filter would be ideal in case there happens to be trash in the tank that could be a problem for the new fuel pump

Right, but two cautions:

1. Make sure that pre-filter is at least a 30 micron or coarser (or you can starve the pump). A 10 micron fine filter AFTER the pump is also needed.

2. USCG regulations require that pump to be tied into the oil pressure circuit, so it will shut down along with the motor (in case of a ruptured fuel line). Also, the pump must be USCG approved for marine use.

I rigged my old boat up with electric pumps feeding the mechanical pump, with a momentary switch to run the e-pumps. TO fire up after the boat had been sitting a while,I hit the switch to fill the carbs, and they cranked right up. Worked swell!

Jeff

I will be switching to HEI this summer, purchased all the stuff needed to covert the Chrysler distributors-to-HEI. The way I am doing it is from an article I found online from Car Craft/Hot Rod magazine, that uses the factory Mopar distributor, and eliminate the Mopar module and ballast. The HEI simply wires into the key-on wire. This conversion has been covered here on the forum before and is real simple. That along with my new fuel pumps that I outlined in a previous post here (rebuild kit from Then & Now Classic Automotive), I will post how the results turn out.

I will say that I know less then most if not all on this forum but after trying to figure out my lack of fire and the two voltage Chrysler ignition coil I saw the HEI stuff and had to go that route. I think I had some PO wiring issues but since I was digging in I wanted to go ahead to the HEI system. I followed the thread on a forum called slant six. It was very easy and I did the relay as well so all of my power is coming from and staying at the engines themselves. The PO had something screwy where the old coil was wired straight to the ignition switch at the helm. Anyway the spark from the HEI coil is huge, bright white and hopefully reliable. Plus parts are easy to come by.

Part two
I had purchased a cheap e pump just to empty my fuel tanks of old gas. Today upon removing the mattress from the aft cabin and gaining access to the fuel tank I see that there is a e pump right ontop of the tank already. I am assuming that this is not a factory deal?