No Fire

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legendlc
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No Fire

Post by legendlc »

Hey all I would like to pose another another question. After reading through the forum for a few days I can't seem to find anything with my issues most everything I read about ignition is engines dying at low rpm after warm or loosing rpm after warmed up. My problem is on my 440's I can't seem to get any decent voltage reading on the coil with the ignition switched on. I am measuring between +(battery) side of coil and a good ground on the motor. I ah e installed new ballast resisters cleaned all connectors etc. I am getting 12v to and through the ignition switch. I found 12v on one terminal of the (solenoid) looking thing on the aluminum bracket at the rear of the motor. I did put a jumper between the positive battery post and the coil and was able to get a spark on the plug I had removed. I'm not certain how great of a spark it was (yellowish) is the report from my 15 year old daughter who was monitoring the sparkplug as it was clipped onto the motor. I will recheck tomorrow and have her man the ignition switch so I can see better. But this still leaves the question of what to check next in line on a Chrysler ignition system?
Thanks in advance for any info.
1978 37 Double Cabin
Lake Cumberland KY
Fastjeff
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Re: No Fire

Post by Fastjeff »

15 year olds can be handy!

New Chrysler modules are so cheap I'd replace it right off. If you paid more that 30 bucks for one you got ripped off.

Jeff
"We live at the bottom of an ocean of air, not at the top." General Marvage Slatington
legendlc
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Re: No Fire

Post by legendlc »

Okay so o am assuming that one from the auto parts store is okay which is great because they are $30 bucks from a marine seller they are $150 bucks.
1978 37 Double Cabin
Lake Cumberland KY
legendlc
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Re: No Fire

Post by legendlc »

Okay, really stupid question here. Does it matter if my flybridge controls and wiring are all disconnected. I assumed since I am able to select stations it was not an issue but just double checking.
1978 37 Double Cabin
Lake Cumberland KY
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Busia
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Re: No Fire

Post by Busia »

We don't know how your boat is wired or what is disconnected. Easy to check if you have spark. DO YOU HAVE GAS FUMES PRESENT? Then you have to get rid of them first before you make sparks! If it is safe, you can pull the coil wire off and put it near the block or some grounded metal. Crank the engine and watch for spark. That will tell you if you have spark while you crank it. Should jump 1/4 inch easily. You still have to have it at the right time and send it to the right cylinder. Be aware that it is common to get ignition power from two places at the same time. One from the starter while you crank the starter. That will be full battery power so you get a hotter spark to start the engine. Then you turn the key back to RUN and get normal run power from there. This will go through the ballast resistor (dropping resistor) then to the coil. If this circuit (resistor, wires, switch ) are bad, the engine will start but quit when you put the key back to run. Very common if the resistor goes bad. If this happens you can jumper the resistor or connect the wires to make it run and get home.
BUSIA
located in Ketchikan, Alaska. Gods country
32 foot Marinette (no fly bridge)
twin 350 Crusader (Chev 350) engines
1:1 Borg Warner velvet drive transmissions
Closed cooling (antifreeze in the engine)
Proud to be retired IBEW and an A+P
legendlc
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Re: No Fire

Post by legendlc »

So far the only time I am able to get spark is when running a jumper straight from the battery to the + side of the coil. No other time has there been even the faintest of Sparks. So far I have replaced the ballast resistors and waiting on a new ignition module to come in to replace that as well.
1978 37 Double Cabin
Lake Cumberland KY
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Busia
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Re: No Fire

Post by Busia »

Just put a voltmeter or even a 12 volt lightbulb on the coil. Turn on the key. Do you have 12 volts there? If not you have to fix it. I would go back to the key and check for voltage to the switch, then out the ignition switch to the coil.
BUSIA
located in Ketchikan, Alaska. Gods country
32 foot Marinette (no fly bridge)
twin 350 Crusader (Chev 350) engines
1:1 Borg Warner velvet drive transmissions
Closed cooling (antifreeze in the engine)
Proud to be retired IBEW and an A+P
legendlc
Aluminum Star
Posts: 181
Joined: Tue Mar 01, 2016 6:50 pm

Re: No Fire

Post by legendlc »

I have less then 1 volt at the coil + side. I have 12v into the key switch and 12V out of the switch when in the on position. I also have 12v on the solenoid on the I post for ignition. I have 12 volts on the ballast resister input as well. I'm losing voltage somewhere and both engines are giving the same issue. And all the voltage measurements are the same for both engines. It appears the PO had some kind of massive stereo put in as I have a closet full of amplifiers and some large cables dropping in above the batteries. The flybridge is all disconnected and sitting on the bow from transport. My intention was to get the lower station in order and engines started etc then get it moved to the water and tackle the bridge once she is in the water. It just seems strange that both are giving me the same readings everywhere. I will say I keep getting tempted reading all of these GM HEI conversion forums. I am assuming that procedure isn't marine rated and while myself I enjoy a little spark here and there my wife and daughters will be joining me on the boat Everytime I'm on it so I guess I may pass on that conversion.
1978 37 Double Cabin
Lake Cumberland KY
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Busia
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Re: No Fire

Post by Busia »

Why convert? That is not your problem.
So you have +12 volts to the resistor. Good. With the key on do you have +12 volts coming out of the resistor? (with no current you still have +12 volts, running and a current the resistor will drop the voltage ) If not, the resistor is bad (open). I would jumper it until you can replace it. Then try it. If you do get ignition and get it to run, what do you have for cooling water for the engine?
BUSIA
located in Ketchikan, Alaska. Gods country
32 foot Marinette (no fly bridge)
twin 350 Crusader (Chev 350) engines
1:1 Borg Warner velvet drive transmissions
Closed cooling (antifreeze in the engine)
Proud to be retired IBEW and an A+P
legendlc
Aluminum Star
Posts: 181
Joined: Tue Mar 01, 2016 6:50 pm

Re: No Fire

Post by legendlc »

I had time to sneak over to the boat for a few minutes today and took some additional readings. 12v going into the ballast resister and close to twelve coming out. I checked the S post on solenoid and had a extra set of hands crank the engine. I was getting 6 volts during cranking. I checked the + side of the coil again and had no voltage. I then disconnected the wire on the + side of the coil and was getting 11ish volts on the wire. As soon as I touched it to the coil it dropped to under 1 volt. I switched coils with a used spare that came with the boat and got the same thing. The both motors are giving the same voltage and all three coils pass the resistance test. Do I have 3 bad coils? I am totally lost here.
1978 37 Double Cabin
Lake Cumberland KY
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