Marinette Boat Forum

I replaced both my Chrysler 318 blocks this winter, 318s with reman’d 318s. I have taken the boat on a sea test three times since launch in May, after each trip parts would be replaced and so on. For the most part I now have replace everything on them. New Edelbroock 1409 carbs, Arco alternators, replaced everything on the electronic ignition (Accel 814 coil, dual ballast resister, ignition control, voltage regulator), spark plugs, caps and rotors, new hoses, filters, etc. This last trip I ran the engines at the dock for about 2 hours at idle. Sounded a little ruff at the start, but smoothed out and sounded good. The week prior both engines sounded great. I took the boat out and little over an hour into the test the port engine died. Started back up put load on it and died. This has happened every trip so far. If I let it rest the port will work for a period of time under load then stall, I have always been able to fire it back up. I have done a lot of research, mainly on this site, ran test per the advice from threads with similar sounding issues. I think its the ignition system, but would like others input. Any help you could provide would be greatly appreciated.

Thank you in advance.

Okay. Here's what you need to do:

Next time it stalls, dive down there fast as possible, pull the coil wire from the distributor, and have someone crank it over. Is there spark? Next, leave the ignition on and check for voltage at the '+' coil terminal. There should be at least 9 volts.

If there is spark/ voltage, your problem might be "Evil-Nol" build up in the carb. This product of ethanol, gas and moisture will go right through water separators and filters, and when it collects in the bottom of your carb (it's heavier than gas) it can stall the motor.

On Bud's boat, the motor, which we fired up initially on an outboard fuel tank, and was running great, died within minutes after hooking up the main tank. "Evil-Nol"!

This you can test for as well when the motor dies. To wit: One; shut off the gas to the fuel pump. Two: pull the flame arrester and give her a shot of starting fluid. If tries to run, then there's the problem.

Finally, I used the following method to clean that crap out of a carbs when it contaminated them. Shut off the gas, get the motor running (starting fluid if necessary), and pump hell out the throttle to keep her going until she runs the carb dry. Open the gas, get her going again, and repeat. That purges the crap out and allows new fuel to enter--hopefully with minimal "Evil-Nol" in it.

If this is your problem, you'll have to pump the tanks out and refill with lots of Stabil.

Good luck.

Jeff

Thanks for the response Jeff.

Curious concerning the fuel issue mentioned. Wouldn’t I see the same issue with the starboard engine? I forgot to mention they share the same fuel tank. I did have the tank pumped out when I was on hard by the boat yard, I think there was a few weeks between it sitting empty and it getting filled up.

If I don’t have spark/correct voltage at the coil I would assume ignition. I was considering purchasing PerTronix Flame-Thrower II or III, not sure the difference. I think I want to get away from the stock ignition system. It’s giving me nothing but problems.

.."Wouldn’t I see the same issue with the starboard engine? I forgot to mention they share the same fuel tank."

Yes. Only one tank?

Jeff

I have one tank feeding the two engines. Replaced the fuel lines and filters. I installed a clear inline filter near the carbs to replace the old. I first thought my problems may be due to fuel. I emptied the fuel filters in a clear jar and let it sit, I didn’t see any water or other stuff in the fuel. This was a done a May.

I am going to upgrade to the below pertronix distributor. I want to get away from the stock ignition system.
PerTronix Flame-Thrower Plug and Play Marine Distributors with Ignitor II® Module D241800.

How would I wire this?

Would I wire this from the starter solenoid to the coil, coil to the pertronix bypassing the the Chrysler ignition system (5 pin ecu box, wiring harness, etc...) I read that if I buy the pertronix coil I don’t need a resistor.

Found the below wiring diagram while researching.

Steven,
If you installed a clear PLASTIC inline fuel filter, you could have a major problem. I don't believe those are approved for marine use and if you should have a fire, the use of that type of filter could negate any insurance claim.

One of the folks here on the site has done a long time interval using a Petronix distributor. You can do a search for that and there's a ton of info on what he did.

Bill

Thanks Bill. I will make the change to the filter and do some further search on the site.

NAPA sells a nice metal in-line for 5/16 inch fuel lines.

Jeff

this might help explain; https://www.boatingmag.com/federal-regu ... e-engines/

The diagram is useful and I note that it shows the location of an anti-siphon valve in the fuel line which is discussed on another thread. The piece doesn't explain that but it gives you a lead on where else to look for more info