HELP!

[Boatin2]

I am trying to pull the water pump off to do the impeller for my first time. The problem is that the bolts are behind the pully and they are recessed. The pully has no holes in it. Does anyone have any idea how to get these out? Thanks a lot for any help at all. Mike.

[jmonday]

Is it a cast pulling or a steel weldment?

[Boatin2]

I'm not sure what you mean?

[javalin390]

Meaning is the pulley on the raw water pump made of thick cast metal, or is it stamped & welded steel? Is it a Jacobs or a Sherwood?

[Tranquilo]

look hard. some of these only have 1 hole. it sucks because you can't look at the front. There has to be a way or they couldnt have put it on

See these types:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Sherwood-Brass- ... 1957656511

http://www.hurrikain.com/Chrysler-raw-water-pumps.htm (at the bottom of the page)

[Boatin2]

It looks like its cast. I agree that it should come off but a tech here says it does not and if it does the pump is junk. I'm not sure about the brand but it looks like OEM?

[javalin390]

If the pump and the engine share the original Chrysler Marine blue paint, it is likely the "OEM", but OEM doesn't mean Chrysler, as the raw water pumps were manufactured by Sherwood, Jacobs, etc...not by Chrysler Corp. If you can access a Chrysler Marine Parts Manual, it will show the parts breakdown of each pump, some with the Sherwood or Jacobs part numbers and/or Chrysler numbers. (my 1975 Chrysler parts manual shows these) Either way, the pulley's can be removed, and the pumps rebuilt. If you can't access the front of the pump to unbolt it, try unbolting the raw water pump's mounting bracket from the front of the block/timing cover, that way you can remove it and actually see how it's put together. There's more than one way to skin a cat.

[Fastjeff]

Be sure to MARK the pump housing before you do anything since it goes in two ways--and one of them is wrong. Also, make a sketch of which way the impeller fins are bent over so you don't get that wrong--easy to do.

Jeff

[bcassedy]

Mike,
You have single motor, below is process I use for twins... (for those of us who have that type of set up)

I believe I understand what you're facing and it's a bear! But the way to get the bolts out is simply to use a box end wrench to loosen then a turn or so. Then, when loose enough, use an open end wrench if you want to get them to "finger-turnin'". Finger turning helps to prevent them from dropping into the bilge. Start with the bottom one first. Don't try and remove, just loosen a couple of turns. Then do the top one completely. When the top one's removed, you'll be able to move (rotate) the impeller assembly enough to remove the belt. Now you can rotate the impeller assembly in such a way that it's easier to remove the bottom bolt.

Putting the bolts back is a bit trickier. What I did was to use new SS bolts and lock washers, and apply some wheel bearing grease to the threads. Use a rag to clean out the threaded holes where the bolts'll go. Slip the bolts into the holes and CAREFULLY move the assembly into places. Slowly start the bolts into the threads. Again, doing the lower bolt first is best (just to 'short of finger tight' so you can rotate the assembly). Then start and almost tighten the top bolt. Then put the belt on. Use a pry bar to tighten the belt and while doing so, tighten the top bolt (easiest one). Then tighten the bottom bolt. Done!

I would recommend pulling the assembly in the fall when you put her up for the winter. Jeff has a good process in that:
1. Mark clearly a mating point on the assembly AND on the motor/mounting housing before removing. (handy in the spring when you're putting things back.
2. IMMEDIATELY after pulling an assembly off, mark it "PORT" or "STBD". ("great, I marked the 'line up' marks, but which dxxx motor does the housing go to!!!") (As Jeff noted, you can mount them in the wrong way! Watching bubbles come out from under the boat is not comforting!)
3. When you open up the impeller plate, take a pic of how the fins are aligned. Trust me, you'll be happy you have them in the spring.
4. When you put the impellers back in (or replace them), give them a coat of dish detergent (and wipe some in the housing). When you twist the impeller into the housing (remember your pics!?) they'll(it'll) go right in. Jeff used tie wraps to collapse the impellers to help get them in and that works too (just remember to leave the impellers free to seek their natural alignment during the winter).
- The film of dish detergent will help with initial suction and reduce friction until water is pulled thru the impeller.

Bill

[Boatin2]

The main issue I have is that the bolts are recessed in the housing and the pully is blocking access. I was told that in 1974 the design changed adding holes in the pully to access the bolts. I am going to try to find a box wrench with an offset bend but Lowes, Menards don't carry them. Maybe Sears will have them. I think it maybe 9/16 or 1/2 possibly 5/8. If I can get a bite on the bolts the rest looks like a piece of cake.