Boat hull wax

[Garyh]

Any definitive wax brand to use on hull and topside? My maroon trim is starting to fade and would like to keep the dark color in tact if possible.
garyh

[Captainjack]

I am not an expert on this at all, but I'll share what I'm up to with you and maybe we together can get some of the others to chime in. I bought a really nice polisher/buffer by Dewalt this week and am getting ready to do battle on the side paint on the boat. Finding out that the buffer came with no pads to wheel with I have learned that: 1. Go lightly, pressure wise as to not to burn the paint. 2. Wool pads cut better, but are prone to leaving swirls, and use more product, foam, on the other hand, will not burn as easily but hop and use a bit less compound. 3. Do small areas, then move on. Lastly, apply real, low silicone products as a seal to the whole thing. The order of attack is: clean the hull first, compounding the surface second with wool, polishing to get the compounding marks out with foam, then waxing by hand to seal the deal up. Each step does a progressively less aggressive attack on the paint. So why all this and not just slap another coat of good wax on her? Well last year, by hand, I did just that, and after almost 5 hours (and really sore arms), told myself not again, while the surface looked good from a distance, swirls, blemishes, dirt etc. were evident close up. Wondering what the other guys do with our sides'/cabin exteriors' paint?

[Fastjeff]

I'm too old for crap! I just toss her in and go boating.

Old Jeff

[Rockit]

Watch those wool pads if you've never used a buffer before. You may find this site useful:

http://www.chemicalguys.com

I've followed their advice and gotten good results.

I borrowed my brother's r/a (random orbit) buffer last fall to polish my boat and was so happy with the results that I used my Amazon points to buy one--a Porter Cable 7224XP.

And while it was nice to have the power and a nice shine. I remind myself that my boat is going to get used and that means some spots to buff out and scratches to fix and a paint job down the road. It's in a harsh environment and stuff is going to happen. (Last August her starboard side got kissed by a pontoon boat--I still can't believe that while I was maneuvering away that turkey aimed straight for me--I buffed out where the pontoon rubbed the hull and there's a minor scratch under the rub rail that might take me a whole fifteen minutes to fix.)

Good luck,

Joe

[barkleydave]

I have buffed boats and show cars for yeasr. If you have original alkyd paint do not waste your time... You will heat it up and it will dull faster than before. Let it go and enjoy.

Paint continues to cure until it is chualk and done.!

Imrons etc. are better and will polish beter but each time you buff you ARE REMOVING THE FINISH.

Either repaint or if railings etc. try wiping some Penatrol on them. They will look great for a season or two.

I am in with Jeff on this one. Our boats just do not command the cost of Bristol finish. (spend the money on safety and mechanicals!)

safe boating,

[jralbert]

Best results I got were with the polymer "wax" products including the stuff in the orange bottle whose names escapes me (I'll update when I remember). But if you have the orig paint and it's chalking, nothing will help for long. That paint was bad stuff. Awlgrip mfr also recommends polymer product- their own. But I think any brand will do.

UPDATE: I remember - It's called NU FINISH. And there are probably others. This one went on easily and came off without much elbow effort.

[Captainjack]

Knew I could rely on you guys! Thanks to all. J