Marinette Boat Forum

Quick question. Has anyone redone their back deck in diamond plate aluminum? I did a previous Aluminum Crestliner boat in 1/4" diamond plate aluminum and it was really nice (basically indestructible). However, wondering if anyone went with something thinner than 1/4" (like 3/16 or 1/8) and if they thought that was strong enough.

Can you get diamond plate in a marine alloy? I have 1/8" or 5/32" plate for my deck. I think that if you leave all the support members in, 1/8" will be plenty strong. I took out a few supports that were in the way and never bothered to put them back. I would never consider a wooden deck or a wooden hull.

My deck was converted to Al by the previous owner, with indoor/outdoor carpet on top of in. Not sure the thickness, but I think it's just screwed onto the original framework. Not sure diamond plate would be ideal, would think it would be a little rough on the feet and reflect too much sunlight.

Hey! I patterned that repair procedure!

Had to replace a few rotten plywood areas, first. The 1/8 inch aluminum I used was smooth, not diamond finish. I pre-drilled and chamfered all the holes and used # 8 flathead SS screws into the wood. (Much easier screwing DOWN into the wood than UP from below!) The outer edges were carefully sealed with angles attached on three sides of the deck.

The white paint was not a success--it marked up way to easily, and was HOT in the sun. A cheapo carpet, replaced every year or so, solved that problem beautifully.

Jeff

Don't know why the factory went to all the trouble and expense of putting down a wooden deck. I put the wood in the dumpster and put the plate right on the framing. Countersink the holes and put SS sheet metal screws from above. I got non-skid paint for the deck but never used it. I don't walk barefoot on it so I don't know if it gets hot, but the water here is cold so the hull stays cold. You may have to put some stiffeners on the hatch covers, but the aluminum will easily span the framing that factory put in for the plywood deck.

Thanks for all the replies! Sounds like 1/8” will work good. We will be using the boat as a dive charter so will also have rubber matting on top of the aluminum. Might just go with flat plate at this point and not the diamond plate as you guys have done!

..."Don't know why the factory went to all the trouble and expense of putting down a wooden deck"

You said it! What were they thinking?

Jeff

PS: The cockpit hatch on mine was not rigid enough (made from 1/8 * thick aluminum). Had to add a couple of angles to stiffen it up. The wood under the rest of the deck made it solid as can be, however.

Sound dampening? Have you considered KingStarboard, although mine is currently in good shape I know the day is coming, probably sooner than later.

A thought on timing: if your wooden rear deck has never been replaced that means it's at least about 25 yrs old. Consider doing the job while the existing wood is firm enough to use as a template. Crumbs of rotted wood won't serve that purpose.

25 years, how bout 43, still in good shape, know the 18-20 years prior to my ownership she sat in a covered slip. What's hurting are the sides, seems to be some kind of fiberboard, was going to use 1/4" StarBoard on them. I'm with you on replacing before there totally shot.