Aft Deck Restoration

Corrosion, Paint, Through Hulls, etc.
User avatar
carl
Royal Aluminum Star
Posts: 206
Joined: Sun Feb 08, 2015 5:58 pm

Aft Deck Restoration

Postby carl » Sun Feb 12, 2017 5:14 am

From all that I have read the Aft Deck has been a major problem throughout the years on our Marinette boats and a "HOT" topic here on the forum, my aft deck is in need of restoration and I intend on getting it right. Currently I have the aft deck on my boat opened up in preparation for several tasks below it. A previous owner had changed out the aft deck, the original 5/8” thick marine grade plywood is long gone and in its place they installed 3/4” thick exterior grade plywood, with a simulated wood vinyl covering. They didn’t glue the vinyl down; they just wrapped it around its undersides and stapled it to the bottom of the plywood, screwed the plywood to the support frames from the underside then ran this huge nasty bead of white silicone caulk around its perimeter. The quality of the work was very poor, It was loose and bubbled up in places and overall it looked like total crap. This is the one thing on the boat that stood out when I first stepped aboard it for the very first time, when I was considering buying it; I knew it had to go. I wish I had a picture of it to share now. Several months ago I removed all of the vinyl and trashed it, unscrewed the exterior plywood and laid it back down temporarily until I came up with a proper fix. I’ve spent months reading all of the posts here on this forum regarding aft deck replacement as well as researching the World Wide Web for different materials and options, entertaining many ideas only to scrap them for something better, finally I have a plan for my aft deck restoration. This restoration will be completed in three phases.

Phase One: I will be pulling both fuel tanks to clean them out, clean the bilge, paint the bilge, install new bilge blowers, hoses, plenums and vents. I will take this opportunity to perform the preventive maintenance service on my Hynautic hydraulic steering and the Bennett trim tab systems. When this work is complete below deck I will reinstall the fuel tanks.

Phase Two: I will be installing 1/8” thick aluminum sheet onto the supporting frame members in two halves over the entire deck (this is the same thickness as the rest of the topsides on a Marinette). I will make a template out of 1/4” plywood then cut and trim these two halves to match the contours of the template. I will cut the aluminum sheets to fit snug fore and aft, port to starboard. I will drill 1/4” holes in the sheet every 12” on the centerline of the supporting framework below so that the sheet can be plug welded to the supporting framework, filled in and ground flat. The sheet aluminum is available at http://www.metalsdepot.com; I will be using the 5052-H32 grade. They will custom cut two pieces that will give me just one seam in the center in line with the keel, additionally I will need a third piece for the aft deck hatch. Marinette used aluminum grade 5086-H116 in the fabrication of their boats, this grade 5052-H32 is a good compatible match for us. The Metals Depot warehouse is in Kentucky and I can pick up the raw material myself saving the shipping charge. Marinette used a 5/8” thick rear deck which brought you level with the glass sliding door threshold. PROCESS UPDATE:(After having read the posts from my fellow Marinette owners that follow, I have revisited my fastening options, I will now be drilling and countersinking the 1/8" aluminum sheet, installing aluminum rivet nuts into the framework below and using stainless steel machine screws coated in Ultra Tef Gel to secure the deck down, I will not be plug welding the 1/8" thick aluminum sheet)

Phase Three: the 1/8” aluminum sheet deck will be topped with a 1/2” teak deck manufactured by Teak Decking Systems out of Sarasota, Florida. This stacks up to the 5/8” thick deck that was originally installed on my boat. The Teak Decking System can be found here: http://www.teakdecking.com/. I have spoken with them and this is all they do all day long, their work is something to see. I will send them a template once the aluminum decking is in place. I will update this topic/post with pictures as I proceed through the restoration, I think it will be an interesting string, educational and informative.
Last edited by carl on Fri Feb 17, 2017 1:57 pm, edited 9 times in total.
1990 Marinette 32' Sedan Fly Bridge "IKOI"
Twin Crusader 350's (Closed Loop Cooling)
Bow to Stern Full On Restoration in Progress
Chickamauga Lake, Tennessee
A boat is always safe at shore, but that's not what its built for...

honestcharlie56
Royal Aluminum Star
Posts: 221
Joined: Tue Jul 19, 2016 8:27 pm

Re: Aft Deck Restoration Plan

Postby honestcharlie56 » Sun Feb 12, 2017 8:30 am

man, that Teak Decking System website shows an incredibly impressive portfolio. If that is in fact all work that they have completed. Are you planning on doing any fishing out of this boat? Only reason I ask is if I were redoing my floor like you are I'd be changing a few things around.
1990 Marinette 32 Sedan Flybridge "Hubba"
Twin Chrysler 318's

User avatar
carl
Royal Aluminum Star
Posts: 206
Joined: Sun Feb 08, 2015 5:58 pm

Re: Aft Deck Restoration Plan

Postby carl » Sun Feb 12, 2017 8:45 am

I have all of my changes laid out, I'm not changing anything else. I won't be fishing but I will be trolling for chicks! Ha! Kidding! The deck is only 8' 11" wide x 5' 7" deep. To them this is a small job and they told me they do small jobs all of the time. If you look on their website you will find a template form to measure for a sport fisherman cockpit, this is what their comparing the Marinette aft deck to because of its shape just much smaller. I am also letting them do my Bow Pulpit because my teak on it is in pretty bad condition. The Marinette is a great boat, I always felt like it needed a little more exterior wood and this is how I'm getting it. More to come...
1990 Marinette 32' Sedan Fly Bridge "IKOI"
Twin Crusader 350's (Closed Loop Cooling)
Bow to Stern Full On Restoration in Progress
Chickamauga Lake, Tennessee
A boat is always safe at shore, but that's not what its built for...

honestcharlie56
Royal Aluminum Star
Posts: 221
Joined: Tue Jul 19, 2016 8:27 pm

Re: Aft Deck Restoration Plan

Postby honestcharlie56 » Sun Feb 12, 2017 9:03 am

Oh I'll be following this one closely. As you can imagine, my submarine cough Marinette 32, has a ruined interior floor. My bow pulpit is also in poor shape but my cockpit floor has been glassed in. Really not a half bad job, I had to actually google these boats to see if they were factory glassed in. Anyway, I've really been kicking around the idea of teak flooring. I really can't wait to see pictures as you go!
1990 Marinette 32 Sedan Flybridge "Hubba"
Twin Chrysler 318's

User avatar
carl
Royal Aluminum Star
Posts: 206
Joined: Sun Feb 08, 2015 5:58 pm

Re: Aft Deck Restoration Plan

Postby carl » Sun Feb 12, 2017 9:07 am

All of my interior cabin soles were wasted too, I restored them all. I need to post pictures of those restorations.
1990 Marinette 32' Sedan Fly Bridge "IKOI"
Twin Crusader 350's (Closed Loop Cooling)
Bow to Stern Full On Restoration in Progress
Chickamauga Lake, Tennessee
A boat is always safe at shore, but that's not what its built for...

javalin390
Aluminum Star
Posts: 171
Joined: Sat Jan 10, 2015 7:14 pm
Contact:

Re: Aft Deck Restoration

Postby javalin390 » Sun Feb 12, 2017 3:17 pm

Going with Al for the rear deck is the only way to go. The previous owner of mine made the investment, and I'm so glad they did. It was then covered in indoor/outdoor carpet. Have to replace the carpet every few years, but not the deck itself !
Jim Elias
1974 37' SedanFlybridge
Twin 360 Chryslers.
Marblehead, Ohio

User avatar
Busia
Aluminum Star
Posts: 196
Joined: Tue Jul 15, 2014 12:21 am

Re: Aft Deck Restoration

Postby Busia » Sun Feb 12, 2017 5:21 pm

Yes on the aluminum, teak over it if you want the authentic look and the maintenance. Just leave it bare aluminum if you want a low maintenance aluminum boat. But do not, do not, do not, weld the deck down! First reason is you would be welding right over the gas tanks, second the deck would probably warp, third you want to be able to pull the deck up if you have to. Just screw it down with counter sunk stainless screws. Fast and easy and easy to remove. You haven't said anything about them, but you will have to make new hatch covers. I used aluminum with angle welded to the back for strength. Seems to work just fine. Good luck with your project, --Ed
BUSIA
located in Ketchikan, Alaska. Gods country
32 foot Marinette express. (no fly bridge)
twin 350 Crusader (Chev 350) engines
1:1 Borg Warner velvet drive transmissions
Closed cooling (antifreeze in the engine)
Proud to be retired IBEW

User avatar
carl
Royal Aluminum Star
Posts: 206
Joined: Sun Feb 08, 2015 5:58 pm

Re: Aft Deck Restoration

Postby carl » Sun Feb 12, 2017 5:33 pm

Hey Ed,
Funny how like minds think alike, however my fuel tanks would be completely empty of gasoline and fumes during the welding because I would have just cleaned them out. I too considered countersinking SS screws through the 1/8" aluminum sheet material. This option is something I am still considering, it would allow me to remove the aluminum under-decking in the future and save me the cost of a welder coming out and plug welding all of those holes. I already planned for the hatch cover in detail.
1990 Marinette 32' Sedan Fly Bridge "IKOI"
Twin Crusader 350's (Closed Loop Cooling)
Bow to Stern Full On Restoration in Progress
Chickamauga Lake, Tennessee
A boat is always safe at shore, but that's not what its built for...

User avatar
Busia
Aluminum Star
Posts: 196
Joined: Tue Jul 15, 2014 12:21 am

Re: Aft Deck Restoration

Postby Busia » Sun Feb 12, 2017 6:22 pm

The only way I would weld the deck would be to have the fuel tanks out and at least 100 feet away, or to fill them and all piping full of water. You want to be able to pull the tanks. I think the only way to go is counter sunk screws. Have one drill with the right size sharp drill bit, another drill with the countersink. If you want a accurate job, find a countersink that is adjustable with a stop. Also be warned that there are different angles of countersinks. Drill, countersink, lift the deck and de-burr, vacuum and then just screw it down. You will be glad to save time and money and to be able to remove the deck if you put it down with screws. Be warned, our boats are made with nice lines so everything has curves. You will find that the hull has tumble home, or that the sides of the hull curve in which makes the deck wider than the distance between the gunnels. Make the deck in two pieces and it will drop right in. I made mine in one wide piece, so it is a fight to get it in and out. Can be done, but it is a lot harder. Good luck with your project, --Ed
BUSIA
located in Ketchikan, Alaska. Gods country
32 foot Marinette express. (no fly bridge)
twin 350 Crusader (Chev 350) engines
1:1 Borg Warner velvet drive transmissions
Closed cooling (antifreeze in the engine)
Proud to be retired IBEW

jralbert
Site Admin
Posts: 443
Joined: Fri Jul 11, 2014 9:15 pm

Re: Aft Deck Restoration

Postby jralbert » Sun Feb 12, 2017 7:35 pm

Two things: agree with Busia that screwing down the decking is much, much preferable than permanently affixing it by welding. It's something you want the option to more easily remove if and when. Second: teak is gorgeous and very rich looking. But it requires a huge investment in time annually unless you want to let it just go "natural" and perhaps just scrub it with soap. I would strongly urge you take a look at something like Plasteak which looks good and is super easy to maintain. I did very little upkeep on the bow pulpit where I replaced the original teak with Plasteak. It was easy to work with and is probably still on the boat with the present owner. I think it still comes in interlocking planks so it looks much like the real thing.
-joel-
former owner 1988 '32 FB Sedan
Chesapeake Bay
twin 318 / 240 hp
Potomac MD